What should I do first when something goes wrong?

When you hit a problem, the key first move isn't figuring out who to contact — it's figuring out which kind of problem it is. Issues on the platform fall roughly into two categories: one you can diagnose yourself with a quick look at the card details page, and one that requires manual review. Getting that first step wrong — like retrying over and over the moment a payment fails, or filing an empty ticket that just says "didn't arrive" — only slows the resolution down.

Here's the counterintuitive part: a failed payment usually doesn't require support at all. The mechanical reason for the failure is written right there in the card's transaction list, and a quick look yourself is often faster than waiting for a first response. And for the deposit, funds, and account issues that genuinely need manual handling, what determines the resolution speed isn't repeated chasing — it's whether your first ticket contains enough information.

Sort out which kind of problem it is, and the first step is already decided

Check payment failures yourself first — the vast majority need no ticket

We audited every failed charge from AI merchants across the platform, transaction by transaction: card-side failures come down to just three mechanical causes — insufficient limit, insufficient balance, or a mistyped card detail — while failures from merchant-category blocks, issuer risk-control declines, and AVS address verification were all zero. In other words, payment failures can almost always be checked and fixed by yourself. Follow the three steps below; there's no need to file a ticket first.

1. First check whether this failed charge appears in the transaction list. If there's a record = the request did reach the issuer, and the failure reason is written out plainly (insufficient limit / insufficient balance / card details don't match); just correct it as indicated.
2. No failure record = the request most likely never reached the issuer, though a few insufficient-limit declines also leave no record. So first confirm the card's limit covers this charge including tax: budget about $22 for a regular subscription, about $25 for a past-due back-charge; if it's not enough, top up the card or open a new one.
3. Limit is sufficient but still zero record = the merchant's upfront risk control is blocking your account, not a card problem. What needs fixing here is your network and account (a newish account or poor IP quality are common triggers); switching cards won't help.

When a payment fails, don't do these three things: retry repeatedly, switch cards blindly, or force it on a card range that charges a failed-transaction fee

• Don't retry repeatedly: consecutive failures on the same card push up your merchant risk score and may trigger a temporary block, and the failure reason won't disappear just because you retried. If it doesn't go through in 2–3 tries, stop and investigate.
• Don't switch cards the moment it fails: except for the "sufficient limit but still zero record" case where your account is being blocked, failures are all fixable on the current card itself — and in that case switching cards is equally useless.
• Don't force it on a card range that charges a failed-transaction fee: such ranges charge $0.60 per failure (itemized on the card-opening page), so blind retries are burning money; failures on ranges without this fee carry no charge, but there too, don't let retrying replace investigation.

For problems that need manual handling, come with complete information so the first response resolves it in one pass

Deposit, funds, and account issues require manual review. An in-platform support ticket is the fastest channel, handled 24/7 with a first response usually within a few minutes; problems involving upstream fund verification take a bit longer to process. If you want the first response to give you an answer directly rather than asking you back for information, gather the following before filing the ticket.